Time: 10:36 am CST
Current Location: Las Choapas, Veracruz, Mexico
Weather: Sunny and humid with temperatures in the mid-80's
Mission Objective: Safely travel to Palenque, Chiapas, conduct brief survey of town, identify Maya festivities celebrating end of cycle.
What is this phenomenon of December 21, 2012? Even a Hollywood feature film was made depicting horrifying natural disasters occurring on this day, throwing the world into chaos and destruction. Some believe that it is indeed the end. Others believe that recent earthquakes and terrible storms like Hurricane Sandy are the result of this Maya prediction. But is it even a prediction of disaster? Or just the end of a cycle, like the other natural cycles we are all familiar with; a day, a year, etc.?
Galactic alignment, cosmic energies, freak storms on Earth, I have not formulated any opinions at all but rather decided to trek into Maya territory and experience this day for myself in my favorite of the ancient Maya pyramids - Palenque. You can read about the city of Palenque here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palenque,_Chiapas
I'm here to photograph the 12.21.12 experience and share what I capture with all with an eye to see. I will be posting here as often as I can through December 22nd so you can see how this "doom's day" carries out down here in the jungles of deep southern Mexico. See you soon!
Follow me also on facebook: www.facebook.com/chadzuber
Update: 11:21 am CST (Maya Standard Time)
After a quick stop at the local Pemex station to fill up Dani's jetta, we speed off down the two lane road leading out of the town of Las Choapas, Veracruz. Dani is a neighbor of my wife's family. He has never been to Palenque and leaped on the idea of going with me. Our route will take us eastbound along the route from Coatzacoalcos to Cardenas to Villahermosa to Cartizaja and finally south to Palenque. About a 3-hour drive for Dani (he likes to drive fast).
The first segment of the drive offers little to see other than hot humid lowlands covered in thick but low vegetation and the crossing of the Tonala River. Shortly before Cardenas, while traveling at a speed of at least 80 mph, Dani notices a federal police patrol car behind us in the distance and begins to slow down. Sure enough, they throw on the lights and Dani pulls over to the shoulder. I assume they are nabbing him for speeding. This may not be good. Gonna have to pay la mordida (small bribe commonly paid to cops for minor traffic violations).
With a hand on the pistol an officer approaches the driver's side of Dani's car. In short-sleeved police attire, bending over with one arm resting on the door, the other hand firmly grasping the pistol, the officer peers into the car and requests to see Dani's I.D. "Where are you going?", he asks. "Palenque", Dani answers boldly. A short pause then the officer asks Dani to exit the vehicle. The second officer then gets out and joins them at the rear of the jetta. They start questioning him the usual "Where are you from?", "What's his name?", "How do you know each other?", "What's in the trunk?", etc.
Dani answers all their question like a pro. Then the second officer approaches my door holding a ametralladora (machine gun). He asks where I'm going then requests to see my I.D. I give him my California driver's license and tell him that my passport is in my backpack in the trunk. "Do you want me to get it?", I ask in Spanish. "Not yet", he replies and rejoins the duo as the other officer goes through the contents in the trunk. They ask about my photo gear and Dani explains to them that I'm a photographer. I begin to get a little worried about how this might end.
The first officer then appears next to me. He asks me where I'm from, why I'm here, where I'm going, how I know Dani, and then asks me to get out and get my passport. I'm happy to see that they hadn't emptied the contents of my backpack. I present to him my passport and tourist card. He carefully compares all my documents and then becomes interested in the spoon in the pocket of my backpack. He pulls out the silver stainless steel spoon and touches it to his tongue and then asks if I inject (referring to the injection of drugs). He points to my arms and I tell him, "No, I don't inject", as I show him my forearms with healthy veins and smooth even-toned skin. I add that the spoon he tasted was used to eat canned herring.
"Todo bien", he says as he gives back to me my documents and we depart. Content with the "not-guilty" verdict, we continue our journey at high speed. Dani explains to me that they didn't pull us over for any traffic violation but rather with the expectation of maybe finding a small amount of marijuana or other recreational drugs. Maybe the presence of an unshaven gringo in the passenger seat led them to believe this could be a good score for them. Fortunately, we didn't have to pay la mordida after all.
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| Hippie playing for pesos |
Despite traffic jams in Villahermosa, two toll booths, an inspection checkpoint, and an encounter with the federal police, we manage to reach Palenque in a little over three hours. I'm amazed at how many hippies there are. I even saw one playing a violin for money. I took his photo and threw two pesos in his hat. Palenque is a popular destination for hippies from all over the world. I'm really not sure what draws them here.
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| Our favorite eatery |
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| Pollo ranchero with tomato and onion |
"Trotamundos" restaurant is a place I've eaten at on previous visits to Palenque. We enthusiastically order a meal to satisfy our intense hunger. Prices are reasonable. I got a delicious good-sized serving of pollo ranchero prepared with tomatoes and onion with rice on the side for 60 pesos (about US$5.00).
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| My first shoe shine |
And then I couldn't resist getting my first shoe shine ever. But the kid said it would cost just 20 pesos and in the end he asks for 35! The waitress tells me that's how he operates. I pay him 22 pesos and he huffs off cursing at the waitress.
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| 1-star accommodations with a decent internet connection |
We then take to the streets on foot in search of a cheap hotel. Surprisingly, all the hotels I enter to inquire about rooms have plenty of vacancies. I thought that if this were the end of the world then everyone might come to the ruins. I guess that they don't take it that seriously down here. We end up finding a decent room (not very decent) with two beds for just 250 pesos (about US$20). Other than the muggy atmosphere, old yellow-painted walls, leaky bathroom, and hard spring mattresses,...it's perfect!
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